Eurovan Camper mods

Retrofit a GM 215-464 Vapor Canister to a 2000 VW Eurovan (Winnebago Camper Model)

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Updated 2022-11-14 : Longer term results, and issues with California Smog test
Updated 2022-06-26 : First version.

Introduction

Part of the Eurovan's evaporative emissions system is a Charcoal Canister which serves as a buffer for gasoline fumes: while filling the tank, while the van is running, and also while the van is sitting. When running, the fumes stored in the canister are pulled out (via the N-80 solenoid/purge valve) and enter the intake manifold to be burned in normal operation.

The Eurovan gas tank really does not like to be overfilled. When this happens, liquid gasoline gets into the evap canister and can cause the activated charcoal pellets to break down, which can clog the filters within the canister, resulting in poor performance of the evaporative emissions system. Common symptoms include:

Diagnosis

First, it's important to diagnose the problem correctly.

Different Approaches

If you are pretty sure it's the carbon canister... People have had a few different way of solving the canister issue:

6 month update / Smog Checks

I've had the GM part in place over 6 months, and my California Smog check was due. Here's what happened:

Retrofitting a GM Vapor Canister to a 2000 Eurovan

If you want to try retrofitting a brand new canister, please read further:

Motivations - why retrofit the GM 215-464 ?

Parts:

I purchased the vapor canister and hose clamps from Amazon; everything else I found at NAPA and my local True Value hardware store. Another good source to consider for certain parts (e.g. fuel hoses), is West Marine which has locations across the USA.

Tools

Unusual tools: Common tools:

Step-by-Step:

(click each picture for full size)


  1. Remove the left wheel
    Some of this could be done with the van on ramps, but it's much easier if you remove the wheel.
    1. Apply parking brake, put the van in Park (and use wheel chocks if needed)
    2. Loosen the lug bolts with the van still on the ground
    3. Jack it up, remove the lug bolts, wheel, and put the van on several secure jack stands for safety
    4. You can now see the Canister and the Canister mounting strap




  2. Release the canister strap
    1. There is a single metal strip which holds the canister in place
    2. The trick to removing it is to use your angled needle nose pliers on the outside strap as shown.
    3. It's possible to remove the inner strap with a lot of bending and cursing, but it's so difficult that I strongly recommend you buy the $15 angled needle nose pliers, and save yourself an hour of grief.

    Remove using angled needle nose pliers on the outside strap


  3. Detach the quick-release hoses
    1. There are two hoses with quick-release fittings
    2. Push the connector together, push the release tabs, then pull apart and it will release
    3. (later, you will have to cut the clamps so you can re-use these two connectors, but don't do that yet)




  4. Remove the VW Canister
    1. Caution: there is a Vent Hose bib connection on the top/back, so don't bend or wiggle it too much to avoid breaking the flange.
    2. instead pull the canister's top end straight away from the body to release
    3. the other two things, lower down, which look like hose connections, are not, rather they are simply mounting posts.




  5. Test the Canister
    This is a good time to pause:
    1. Are you sure you need to replace the canister?
    2. Test the canister - blowing air through the 3 connections, see if air is flowing freely or seems clogged.
    3. If all connections flow freely and you don't seem to have liquid gasoline in the canister, it may not need replacing and you could stop here.
    4. Maybe your N-80 valve is bad? An easy fix if so.




  6. Mounting Location for GM Canister
    1. the new canister will be mounted underneath the van, on the left side, aft of the gas tank and in front of the gray water tank
    2. this position works great on my van, which is a 2000 Eurovan Winnebago Camper. I'm not sure if this will fit on the Weekender or MV models, which are shorter.

    Mounting location, left side, between fuel tank and gray water tank.


  7. Drill Hole for M6 RivNut
    1. The canister has one big mounting bracket. You need to drill a good size hole for this.
    2. I installed a M6 size Rivet Nut, but you could probably just drill a hole for a regular metal screw instead
    3. Drill on the peak (not the valley) of the corrugated metal
    4. Don't drill too deep: you have about 1/2" (12mm) of depth to work with. If you go deeper, you will pop through the floor into the interior




  8. Location to drill larger hole
    If you drill all the way through, this shows where the hole will be in the interior of the van.



  9. Drill Six holes for the stainless steel strapping
    1. Drill 6 holes (3 for each stainless steel strap)
    2. Drill the center hole for each strap first -- you will need to drill through the strap itself
    3. Then screw the center strap to the body, using 1/2" length stainless (or galvanized) screws
    4. Once the center is fastened, drill the 2 outboard holes: again, drill through the strap.
    5. Drill on the peaks (not the valleys) of the corrugated metal




  10. Mount the stainless straps
    1. Follow the instructions in the DIY package of stainless straps.
    2. it helps to bend the straps flat with nice 90 degree angles to fit the canister.




  11. Mount the GM 215-464 Canister, install hoses
    1. Mount the canister securely first, before adding the hoses
    2. The two large connections (Tank and Vent) each get a 3" piece of 5/8" hose, with a Lasco 19-9533 5/8" to 3/8" nylon barb adapter
    3. The small connection doesn't require an adapter, you can connect the 5/16" fuel hose directly
    4. Fit note: the eurovan uses 8mm (about 5/16") and 6mm (about 1/4") fuel hoses, but I found that I could use 5/16" hoses for both. The 5/16" fuel hose is fairly tight on the 3/8" connectors, so you may want to lubricate or stretch the hose to ease it on.
    5. Hose length: the three 5/16" hoses will be about 6 to 8 feet long. I first connected the hoses to the canister, then routed them, then cut to length as needed.




  12. Route the hoses
    1. route hoses around the back of the fuel tank...
    2. then forward, between the left side of the fuel tank and the van body
    3. secure using the Jandorf #61459 1 1/8" hose clamp
    4. (not shown) add some more zip ties to tidy it up




  13. Connect all 3 hoses
    1. the vent hose uses the Lasco 19-9605 right-angle 3/8" to 1/2" nylon barb adapter
    2. secure the vent hose using two of the Jandorf #61462 3/8 inch nylon clamps as shown
    3. the Tank and Purge hoses will re-use the connectors from the old VW Canister
    4. the larger hose (8mm) connects to the Tank connector on the GM canister
    5. the smaller hose (6mm) connects to the Purge connector
    6. Fit note: the 2 hoses run near the frame/jack point - you should locate them and secure with Zip Ties so they are not hanging down in the way.




  14. OBD II diagnostics
    If you are in a hurry to clear your OBD2 codes, you can test drive doing the OBD2 Eurovan Drive Cycle


  15. To Dos
    • After driving the van for 100 miles, I found some of the hose clamps needed tightening. Be sure to check this.
    • With the new mounting location, the canister itself is more protected than the stock canister. However, the 3 hoses are a bit exposed now to road debris or a tire blowout. It might be good to fashion some sort of shield behind the left tire to protect these parts.


Final Thoughts

Questions? Feedback?
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